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Under Cabinet Lighting Buyer's Guide

Under Cabinet Lighting Buyer's Guide

Cutting vegetables, food prep, and performing other kitchen tasks can be a bit of a challenge in poor lighting. Overhead lighting alone simply won’t do. What you’re left with is a dim space that has too many shadows to safely and efficiently engage in routine kitchen activities. Luckily there is a solution to this problem – under cabinet lighting. It provides adequately illumination, brings beauty to your kitchen, and value to your home. Installing under cabinet lighting can be as simple as plugging it into an outlet or complicated enough to require a licensed electrician. So, if you’re considering adding under cabinet lights to your kitchen but don’t know where to begin, our guide will help put you on the right path.

Types of Under Cabinet Lights

Just like its name suggests, under cabinet lights are fixtures that are hidden under the cabinet to illuminate counter space, making it easier for you to do kitchen tasks. There are three different types of under cabinet lights, each having different features that impact how they display light.

For even light distribution ideal for kitchen workspaces, then opt for light bars. The fixture has a subtle, professional look. If you want a dramatic effect, puck lights will do the trick by shining pools of light onto your countertops. These lights can also be installed in places with dark corners or nooks, such as shelves, pantries, and cupboards. They also have a battery powered option, perfect for novice DIYers.

Puck lights

Tape lights, also known as strip or rope lights, are another easy install. These fixtures are shallow which makes them useful for small spaces. Not to mention, they are inexpensive, a nice perk for tight budgets. Resizable tape lights are available that can be cut and stuck under cabinets. These lights are available for covered outdoor spaces, as well.

Strip lights

Regardless of which under cabinet light you choose, be sure to use the same brand or product family of fixtures. That way you can have multiple light bars or puck lights on the same power source or switch without compatibility issues.

Sizing and placement

Measure your lights to make sure they’ll be concealed under the cabinet. Matching the finish with the cabinet will help mask the fixture. Light bars should be about the same width of the cabinet for even light distribution, while puck lights should be spaced 8-10” apart. The closer your under cabinet lights are to the front of the cabinet, the more evenly light distributes. To create those pockets of light for visual intrigue space those puck lights farther apart.

Power Source

The level of difficulty for installation will depend on the power source. Wireless fixtures are battery-powered and just plug into a standard electrical outlet. If you have no electrical experience, then these under cabinets lights are the ideal choice. You can also move them to different locations, especially when you don’t have a nearby power source.

Direct wiring will require basic electrical experience but gives you the ability to simply flip a switch to turn the light on and off. One type of power source that requires direct wiring is a low voltage fixture. It converts your home’s standard line voltage system using a plug-in transformer. A nice perk about low voltage fixtures is that it can power multiple lights and usually have designs that camouflage it with cabinets. However, make sure to install the transformer in an unused outlet.

Line voltage fixtures are the most difficult. Because they connect directly into the home’s junction box, you’ll need to keep track of the total wattages to make sure it doesn’t exceed what the circuit can handle. For example, a 15-amp circuit can only handle less than 1,440 watts. Make sure you don’t use a dedicated circuit, a circuit that already has appliances connected to it. Some locales also prohibit wiring dedicated circuits, so it is best to check the electrical code beforehand. Your home’s main electrical box will have the circuit’s amperage rating so you’ll know what it can withstand. This isn’t a project for DIYers unless you have electrical experience. You’ll also need to have more tools and materials than wireless and low voltage for installation. Keeping track of wattages can be a pain, so make it easier for yourself and opt for a LED system.

Choosing Your Bulbs

Your bulb choice depends on your preference. Halogen bulbs are an option. Xenon bulbs provide intensified light and has the warm colors of an incandescent. Because the bulb uses xenon gas, it has a longer lifespan. While CFL and fluorescent bulbs are energy efficient, they don’t have a subtle appearance. The most popular of all bulbs, however, are LEDs. Their energy efficiency, long lifespan, and low heat emittance make them a practical option. They also have a subtle look and are easy to install. Some LEDs can be cut to your desired length. You choose from a wide range of color temperatures. Color-changing strips are also available. With all these attractive features, it’s no wonder these are preferred.

How to Install Under Cabinet Lights

Be aware, you must follow building codes and wiring requirements. Any electrical circuits that connect to your fixture must be shut at the main breaker. Wireless and low voltage fixtures have different requirements than line voltage. So, gather the tools and material you’ll need according to your power source.

Tools and materials

• Wireless and low voltage lights require the same tools for installation. Make sure you have all the tools and materials before beginning the process.

• A wide range of screwdrivers to attach the fixtures under the cabinets

• Drill and small bits for creating holes for mounting screws.

• A hammer and cables stables will be used to secure the wiring.

• Line voltage fixtures have the highest level of difficulty. This job has both a different installation process and tools.

• To make your electrical connection, get two conductor sheathed wire. Make sure they meet local electrical codes.

• A dimmer to control ambiance.

• Lineman’s and side-cutting pliers, and strippers to cut and strip wire at the ready.

• A drywall saw, a utility knife for cutting holes for cables and switches, and extra drills bits.

• For safety, have a voltage tester to make sure that electrical circuits are off.

• Electrical tape and wire nuts will be used for any electrical connections.

• Lastly, fish tape will help pull wire through those hard to get to spaces.

Running cables

When running low voltage cables, it’s best to use the least amount cables you can to avoid making more holes than necessary. Run them under or inside cabinets, holding them in place with cable staples. If using line voltage cables, they run within the walls. A cable should run between the junction box and where you’re installing the switch. The rest of the cables will run from one fixture to the next.

To connect the lights, you’ll need to cut holes for each light under the cabinet and behind the installation location. Keep those wires away from plumbing or gas pipes within the walls. When running your wiring, drill holes in the studs along the way. Use the fish tape to pull the wire through the cut openings under the cabinet. Make sure to give the cable slack at each fixture and the switch. Secure the wires with cable staples every 4ft.

Tip: For kitchens with backsplash on the counters, remove it and make necessary holes on the uncovered counter surface.

Installing under cabinet lights

Mark drilling points under the cabinet for each screw using the manufacturer’s installation template. If one wasn’t provided then hold the fixture against the cabinet instead. When drilling holes at each mark, avoid drilling through the cabinet. Install the fixtures using the screws and screwdriver, making sure to not obstruct the areas for wiring connection.

Connect the lights

Wireless fixtures don’t need connecting since they are battery-powered. Your low voltage system may have plug-in power cables. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for connecting. For line voltage connections, one cable from the switch and one leading to the next light need to go into the light fixture.

Remove the sheath, then cut the white, black, and green cables to a length long enough to twist wires together. Strip about ¾ of an inch of insulation at the end of each wire. Then twist wires of the same color together. Secure the wires with a wire nut and wrap electrical tape around them. Hide the wiring inside the fixture and cover it. One set of wires should be left to install into the last fixture.

Switch or dimmer

Your wireless or low voltage fixtures may either have a built-in switch or one that needs to be mounted onto the cabinet. If you need to mount the switch, the installation process is identical to installing the light fixtures to attach to the light switch.

If you’re installing a line voltage switch or dimmer, use a switch box as a template to create an outline of a hole on an existing wall. First drill a hole on the outline and use a drywall to cut the rest of it out. Feed the cables through the hole, then clamp them into place. Trim sheathing until you have about 6 inches of wire. Place the switch box into the hole. Tighten the retention screws until mounting ears are firmly attached to the drywall.

The end of the wires should be stripped ¾ of inch. Connect the 2 white wires together and the ground wires with electrical tape and wire nuts. Keep in mind that you might have to the ground wires to the green grounding terminal on the switch. The black wire from the power source attaches to the top terminal on the light switch, and the black wire leading to the lights attaches to the bottom terminal of the switch. Place the wires in the box to conceal them. Attach the switch to the box, then install the switch cover.

Tip: Install dimmers to control kitchen lighting. Brighten kitchen workspaces for performing tasks, or dim for ambiance. Have control over individual lights by installing a dimmer for each. Or control all lights with one dimmer or switch using connectors or linking cables. Note that not all fixtures are dimmable, such as some LED lights, so check the product for compatibility first. Consider using remote controls that let you control dimming or any colorful lighting effects you want to create.

Tip: Connect your switch or dimmer to a junction box that is easy to access.

Connecting the electrical system

Connect the wires to your home’s electrical system by first pulling about 6 inches of wire into the junction box. Go through the same process of removing sheathing and stripping the ends of each wire. Twist the same color wires together and connect them with electrical tape and wire nuts. Place the wires inside the hole and install the switch box cover.

Testing the circuit

Make sure each location is properly connected before turning the power back on at the main junction box. Then turn on the light switch on to see your fixtures light up!

DIY Versus Professional Electrician

The cost of installing under cabinet lights can vastly differ between DIY and hiring an electrician. Wireless lights are an easy DIY installation that won’t require a professional. However, direct wiring takes more time and effort.

If this is a DIY project, there are inexpensive 1 inch fluorescent strips available in 24, 36, and 48” lengths that you can buy. Use a whole strip to control all the lights at once or separate pieces to turn them on individually. However, this will take wiring skills.

If your under cabinet lighting operates on a line voltage system and you don’t have wiring skills, then hire an electrician. Some electricians will cost you around $2400, which is a reasonable price. Especially, if it includes lights, the transformer, electrical labor, and light rails. Keep in mind that while electricians can do the wiring, installing the under cabinet lights is difficult. It may not look as nice as it would if you did the project yourself. That’s why it’s best to have an electrician install the lights during construction rather than after. Make sure the electrician communicates with the contractor before the drywall is put up.

Under cabinet lighting is a great way to add function and form to your kitchen. It shines light on areas that overhead lights can’t reach and elevates the look of your kitchen. Regardless of whether you take this on as a DIY project or hire a professional, under cabinet lights will make using your kitchen a more enjoyable experience.

Sources

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/4578220/new-construction-pay-for-under-cabinet-lighting-or-diy

Don’t DIY if you're not experienced in electrical wiring. Professional installation cost includes lights, transformer, electrical labor, light rails on cabinet and any markup then $2400 is reasonable. Electricians hate installing under cabinets lights because it’s hard to install properly and make it look nice. A fluorescent strip called "1 inch little light" is available in 24, 36, 48” lengths with a 1" thickness. Can choose to light the whole strip, light separate pieces at one at a time, or light the pieces together. You must be familiar with electrical components. Hire electrician during construction for cleaner results. Electrician needs to interface with current contractor and do wiring before the drywall is up.

 

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